Cutting the Pieces -Part II

This is a continuation of my 'The mystery of making a dress...Or how a dress is born' blog post from the other day.
This post is all about the cutting process - PART II
Let the fun begin :D

Laying the fabric flat on the work table

 placing the pattern onto the fabric and secure it in place (I use heavy weights ,rather then pins)

 Cutting the pattern with 1 cm seam allowance (I use my Aristo ruler as a guide )

 keep cutting

 BACK piece is ready ( I set it aside while I work on the other pieces )

 One of the MOST important rules (for me) in pattern constructing is marking the pieces
shown -placing dots in places where two pattern pieces are going to meet (this is the upper part of the front -the sweetheart piece of the dress )

 placing the front bodice pattern and one of the pocket pieces 

 Marking again (shown the 2nd  part of the sweetheart piece,the bottom one)

 More marks for the pockets (this is the place where the pockets should meet the bodice piece when sewing)

 marking....marking...marking...

 and some more marking :D 

shown are pieces of  the kangaroo pockets -the ones that are going to be manipulated later on 

Tracing the starting and ending points of the pockets to the bodice pieces (copier paper is used)

 pizza roller for accurate lines 

 this is how it should look after tracing

 second side is marked

Now cutting the sleeves out

 Tracing the dart on the sleeves

Marking again.......now the pockets are marked

Cutting  sleeve's cuffs and  back's belt 

 Shaping and cutting the hood

A bit boring...I know :)

After all pieces were cut and marked the real fun begins- SEWING the pieces together

GO to the the next and final post-part III Sewing the garment 

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The mystery of making a dress...Or how a dress is born

PART I

I have this great customer from Canada who was very curious about the process of making her hoodie dress ...After having a quick thought ,I decided to capture the whole process starting from the pattern draft of the hoodie dress ,to the finished product.
This post is NOT a tutorial,but rather a quick journal of a birth of a dress :)
This is how I do it step by step -

First of, I ask for LOTS of measurements!!!

Then the calculations begin...
 I convert all the measurements given to me to metric system and begin to sketch the front pattern of the dress-
 Bust line...Waist...Hips-all according to the size of my customer

 Math,Math and more Math...
After I finish with all my guide lines,I start shaping the details of the design -
shown is the kangaroo pocket of the hoodie dress

 Next-Drawing the sweetheart neckline ...Determine  bust's dart ... Shaping the sleeve hole...Marking the lining

Next is the pattern of the BACK-

Back's dart ,sleeve hole depth , waist belt and lining  are established 

Coming back to the front-

 Tracing  the front pocket

Checking that everything is matches

 Tracing the belt on the back and the lining of the hem

 Drawing the lining of hoodie's front

 Cutting the lining 

 Checking if the lining is traced well

 Numbering all the pattern pieces (it's easy to loose small pattern pieces -numbering helps keep track of everything)

 Now for the sleeve drafting

 Radius of the sleeves  is calculated

Drawing the sleeve's cap 

 Almost ready

 measure twice,cut ones :D

Yep, math classes come in handy in this section of the process

O.K,my Hoodie Dress pattern is ready,now part II of the process begins-

the CUTTING of the pattern

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